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In October of 2006, The National World War II Museum in New Orleans introduced Knit Your Bit, a nationwide grass-roots program that produces hand-knit scarves for World War II veterans in appreciation of their service to our country. Since then, the museum has received nearly 5,000 hand-knitted and crocheted scarves from 48 different states and several countries. The scarves have been distributed to Veterans Administration hospitals and other veterans' organizations as far away as Hawaii. Knit Your Bit 
On the home front during World War II, knitting was a national endeavor. Women, men and even school-age children were eager to "knit their bit" to support the war effort and provide needed garments for the troops. First Lady Eleanor Roosevelt was frequently photographed knitting, and in 1941, she boosted national participation by hosting a Knit for Defense tea at the Waldorf-Astoria in New York City. Time magazine wrote, "The men hardly have time to grab their guns before their wives and sweethearts grab their needles and yarn." Later that same year, the popular weekly magazine Life featured a cover story on knitting along with instructions and a pattern for a knit vest. In 1942, the American Red Cross was designated by the War Production Board as the clearing agency for all knitting projects and provided patterns for socks, sweaters, mufflers, fingerless mitts, knit watch caps and helmets. Even cotton stretch bandages were hand-knitted in vast quantities. The new knit and crochet patterns can be downloaded free from the museum's Web site Nationalww2museum.org. To request a pattern by mail, call Lauren Handley at (504) 527-6012, ext. 229, or by e-mail lauren.handley@nationalww2museum.org. Don't knit? Knit Your Bit can still use your monetary donation to cover a portion of the costs associated with packaging and mailing these greatly appreciated gifts. In addition to unveiling the pattern for Knit Your Bit year three, the museum is also rolling out a new community knitting project. Knit Your "Itty" Bit invites knitters to knit an 8-x-8-inch square that will be sewn together with other squares to make quilts for VA Centers across the country. This is a great project for young and beginning knitters, busy knitters and groups of knitters who want to finish a project in one sitting. By combining individual and unique squares from across the country, these quilts will truly represent the "We're all in this together" spirit that the National World War II Museum celebrates. Knitters can even dedicate their squares to honor a particular veteran. The museum will list knitters and veterans on the Knit Your Bit Web site. Send scarves, quilt squares and donations to: The National World War II Museum 
Paige's Lizard Ridge Afghan For those who want more information about the pattern, Paige found it on Knitty.com. Several readers were disappointed that more information was not provided at that time about mattress stitch, so this useful stitch is the theme for this newsletter. Magical Mattress Stitch Designer and instructor Chris Bylsma (ChrisBylsmaDesigns.com) taught me that mattress stitch wins hands down over back stitch, crochet or any other seaming technique. Because mattress stitch is done from the right or public side of the knitted fabric, you have the opportunity to make it look just right from the start. Why not make a couple of small stockinette stitch samples and practice along with me? Hands-on learning is one of the best ways to learn any new technique. We'll demonstrate three variations of seams: vertical, horizontal and hybrid (horizontal-to-vertical). You may use the tail of the cast-on yarn to sew the seam if you wish, but I prefer to use a separate length of yarn. The length of yarn needed for sewing is shorter than you might think, as the yarn will be snuggled firmly as the seam progresses. For ease in viewing the samples, I am using a contrasting-color yarn; even so, when done correctly, the seam will disappear. I suggest using a blunt-tipped tapestry needle (Chibi is the brand I recommend), so our sewing will not pierce the yarn of the fabric as we seam. Aligning the Seams
Bring the needle under the corner of the left swatch, and up and back up into to the same spot on the right swatch, taking care that you are not piercing the sewing yarn. Pull the yarn snugly.
Vertical Seams
Return to the right swatch; insert the needle tip into the same space you exited from the initial stitch; go under two bars and repeat for five or six stitches. Do not allow the needle to go under the yarn from the previous stitch; that would prevent the travel of the yarn in the next step.
Hold the base of the seam in one hand and slowly but firmly pull the sewing yarn in the direction of the seam until the seam pulls together. There's the magic: The two swatches are now joined invisibly.
Loosen the last stitch a bit to allow you to see where to insert the needle for the next stitch and continue. Avoid pulling too firmly on the sewing yarn because the seam will become too tight; it takes practice. Gently easing the seam allows the same flexibility as the knitted piece. One bar may be picked up rather than two; practice to see which gives you the best results.
You cannot tell this was sewn with black yarn except at the beginning! Horizontal Seams
This is easier if you have the two swatches faceup, with bound-off edges together, one above the other, with a small gap between them. After aligning the edges as shown above, identify the Vs, which are the stitches pointing toward the bound-off edges. Join the Vs as you sew on the lower swatch; then travel up and down between the pieces, each time gathering a new V on the yarn, keeping your stitches loose again. After four or five six stitches, gently but firmly pull the yarn in the direction of the seam, to the left.
Loosen a bit to see the last stitch clearly, and resume sewing.
Continue to loosen each segment slightly after pulling the sewing yarn so the seam has a bit of flex. Hybrid Seams
Insert the needle into the first V pointing toward the bound-off edge of the lower swatch; go into the swatch above and pick up one bar inside one stitch from the edge.
Return to the lower section and sew into one V, and repeat for four to five stitches. Gently pull the yarn to the left until the stitches blend together; loosen the last stitch to see it better, and repeat the process.
If your armhole has more shaping, you'll need to adjust the sewing. Often, I will begin at the top of the sleeve, sew some of the stitches using this last method, and then progress to a vertical seam for the major part of the seam, and finish with the horizontal method. Adjust the seaming as the type of seam changes. You may ease the seam by taking two bars to one V or vice versa to accommodate the shaping of your particular garment. Practice makes perfect! If you do not like the way the seam is going, you may remove the seam entirely by pulling firmly on the sewing yarn, unless you have anchored the first stitch as illustrated above. You can find many examples of tutorials on this and other seaming methods online; just Google your request, and check out the possibilities!
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Free Pattern
From Rachel Wade: I am 83 years old and have knitted since I was in my 20s, but for the life of me, I cannot get the hang of knitting with circular needles. I can do the initial work, but when I get to the next row, I am confused. Is it possible that you can help me with this problem? I enjoy your newsletter and ideas. Thanks. As one who has used circular needles almost exclusively for 40 years, welcome to the club. If you are knitting in the round, when you finish one round, you keep going in the same direction. You'll be moving on to the next row of the pattern stitch if you are following a chart or written pattern.
In your Summer Garden Coverlet pattern, what do you mean by "damp block"? Love your magazine and newsletters. Thanks a bunch. To damp block, spread out the completed coverlet on a clean surface, and either mist liberally with water from a spray bottle or cover with a slightly damp sheet or towel. Allow to dry completely before picking up the item. Pinning out the piece is not necessary with this method.  |
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That's all for this edition; I hope you've learned a new trick or two about seaming!
Barb Bettegnies Send feedback! I may even feature your idea in an upcoming issue of Creative Knitting magazine. By sending your feedback, you grant Creative Knitting the permission to use the contents of your e-mail in future publications. If you enjoyed this newsletter, be sure to forward it to your knitting friends. And if you'd like to see Creative Knitting magazine, please click here and receive a free issue just for giving the magazine a try. |
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PS. Please click on the following links for items that may be of interest to you: Nationalww2museum.org |
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